The Explorer
June/July 2006
News from the Bush!
Greetings from a wet and windy Cornwall in the UK.
Our lives are intrinsically linked with changing environments, climates and countries, so with little surprise, this letter is being written whilst on vacation away from the lush greenery of Olerai.
The green season has drawn to a close, and the Alamana Wilderness Camp has migrated to the watery sand rivers of Tarangire.
Reflecting back on the past seven months is always a favourite muse of mine, reflections on excitement, bewilderment, concern over starving hoof stock waiting for the long rains, and then of course, concern over when the rains would stop sufficiently, to allow our supply trucks to reach both of our Serengeti Camps!
Changing environments
Amidst a plethora of experiences the Alamana Wilderness Camp, linked with our luxury Mobile Camp, has come up trumps yet again as the ultimate wildlife viewing combination, within the Serengeti Eco system.
The drier months preceding the monumental rains were varied in viewing content and varied in their intensity, wildebeest calved on dust dry plains, buffalo roamed, ribs showing, and almost every type of predator dined from the circumstance.
Overnight, the grasslands flourished as only the Serengeti grasslands can when flooded with life giving rainstorms and the fate of millions of herbivores took on a healthier looking future.
To us guides, the change in weather patterns provoked comment, as the protruding ribs of the Ndutu Buffalo population regenerated fat supplies, reflecting every ones underlying concerns, that without a change in good grazing, the effect might have been catastrophic.
As with most things concerned with our fragile environment, the response to the rainfall was as dramatic as an early morning sunrise and the resultant effervescence as welcome as the mornings dew.
Easter off the island of Pemba
In stark contrast to the green plains and kopje islands of the Serengeti, we headed towards the coast for a safari off shore in the Indian Ocean along the coast of Pemba island, lying to the north of Zanzibar.
Now that the kids have their diving qualifications, we thought it would be fun to combine a little research into new product, with a family vacation aboard the sailing vessel SV Jambo.
Captain Hans sailed the 72-foot, double masted, live aboard dive boat, to Pembe Abwe to collect us all for the journey across to Pemba from the mainland.
After a short briefing and orientation of our dive home away from home, we set sail for Pemba.
The SV Jambo can accommodate 10 guests in 5 double air-conditioned cabins, with alfresco dining on the aft deck or alternatively in the wood panelled cabin below. We all opted for sleeping on large mattresses on the cabin top as the preferred night time arrangements, as the evenings anchored away from the Pemba shoreline, were balmy and mosquito free.
As a diving platform, the SV Jambo is a fine vehicle for gaining access to the many dive sites along the Pemba coastline, being both manoeuvrable and, cutting a low draught in the water. The crew, adept at looking after a group with varying abilities, soon acquainted themselves with each of our individual preferences, facilitating fast and easy dive gear set up.
The Pemba dive sites vary from shallow coral shelves to impressive cliff dives that draw one down and down if left to ones own vertigo!
Hunter, at just 5 years old earned his ‘Bubble Maker’ certificate breathing through a regulator and an extended hose down to a dizzying 2 metres!
In addition to 4 dives a day, great meals and completely private dive sites, we were treated to some good old fashioned sailing and some exquisite sashimi from the yellow fin tuna caught as we lazily trawled the ocean to and from, our own Robinson Crusoe haven at Pembe Abwe.
E.mail us for more details regarding adding time aboard the SV Jambo to your safari.
Location change
The move to Osunyai took place after the last safari for the Alamana departed on the 17th June heralding the busiest first two weeks of June, Wildlife Explorer has ever seen.
The increase in the overall camp structure at The Alamana Wilderness Camp brought with it a few extra operational headaches as we broke down the dining/lounge structure and packed it away for the dry months.
Osunyai sees the return of the dual tents for the lounge and dining suites on the sand peninsular overlooking the sand rivers, where elephant come to excavate for water when the tides submerge under the shifting sands.
Each of the 8 accommodation tents looks out over the magical sand river and, as dry season camps tend to be, are surrounded by that wonderful day break avian chorus, along with the musky damp grass aroma, so redolent of a traditional bush camp.
This season we welcome Noel Mbise to our walking guide ranks. Noel has a vast experience guiding walking safaris, having spent significant time in the Selous Game Reserve, Tarangire, Serengeti and Ruaha. We expect that Noel will compliment the other professional walking guides working with Wildlife Explorer in what is the most exciting walking program available in northern Tanzania.
News from Olerai
Since last I put pen to paper we have all been going hell for leather in all sorts of directions! Easter as I mentioned, ended with the diving expedition to Pemba. Prior to that we flew into camp to join our good friends Andrew and Shelly Beckett and their family and friends, for a few nights of adventure at the Alamana. Great fun watching the respective children enjoy posing with the rifle on a newly brought down Zebra carcass, more than likely from the resident lion pride! Well, not everyone’s cup of tea but what does one expect from kids brought up in the bush?
Jamie climbed gracefully on the kopjes, Hunter announced that yet again, his intention was to explore for bones, accompanied by the camps resident Masai walking guide-John and poor old Hannah had to remain in the UK studying for her final International Baccalaureate examinations.
Lured by the diving and then the wonderful weather, we flew to Pembe Abwe for the rest of the adventure, staying longer than we should have and packing in a panic for the annual journey to the USA.
This year’s marketing, as always, was a huge success, all due to the friendship of our many ex-safari guests, who very kindly set aside their time, homes and good will, to host an evening of informal safari images, and stories from the bush.
My special thanks to Chuck and Melinda, Diana and Marty, Gordy and Sue, Don and Judy, Blayne and Bill, Keith and Barb and of course, last but not least, Lynne and Sharon. Susie and Marty, who annually see me whirlwind my way through the Bay Area have my eternal thanks for their hospitality and of course everyone at the Wilderness Travel office I bow to!!
And lastly, Rancheros Visitadores, for those that know and understand, how riding the trails in the Los Pardres wilderness area can be, waking after a night spent sleeping on the ground in a bedroll caked with frost, cooking eggs in beer cans for breakfast and the sheer unspoilt beauty of endless miles on horse back, what fortune we have to give thanks for!
And with that, greetings from us all, and the end of our news from the bush.
With warm wishes,
Gary & Jo
