The Explorer
June 2003
Mountain Gorillas - A Letter from the Bush.

“East as the sun rose the dawn chorus rang out over Bwindi - The Impenetrable Forest”

Trek # 5 in search of the endangered Mountain Gorilla (Gorilla Gorilla Beringei) spanning two separate safaris covering almost the entire month of June 2003.

Numbering only 650 or so individuals spanning 3 countries, Rwanda, Uganda and Congo, the Mountain Gorilla is fighting for survival in environments where civil unrest are common and always where wildlife comes off the worst in its fight for existence.

Rwanda and Uganda are at present making substantial efforts to protect the home ranges of these gentle giants as well as ensuring the safety and security of the few fortunate people that venture into the Mountains of the Moon and the Virunga Volcanoes to track the largest of the Great Apes.

Trekking for Mountain Gorillas is as unique an experience as tracking wild game on foot at the Alamana Camp in our own private concession, The Ngaroi, adding yet another diverse experience to an already full selection of possibilities when designing a safari itinerary with Wildlife Explorer.

The two safaris that trekked for Gorillas were as different as they were exciting with one itinerary choosing to include the migratory herds in the Serengeti as they travelled towards the Grumeti River where the enormous crocodiles awaited, the other preferring to visit Uganda and Rwanda for extended treks at Bwindi and Kinigi.

The last time I set foot in the Impenetrable forest was back in 1987 when the area had only been designated as important but had yet to attain National Park status. Since then The Impenetrable Forest has been afforded World Heritage status as well as being recognised as a National Park, which currently has 341 of the 650 Mountain Gorillas, left in the world.

We were prepared for rain or at least soggy conditions with cloudy skies greeting us as we arrived at headquarters to prepare for the trek.

The Uganda Wildlife Authority oversees the exploration of the park and does a pretty fine job of administration, registration and preparation for small groups of up to 6 visitors to trek and track for Mountain Gorillas. Currently there are 3 habituated groups or families of Gorillas accessible to visitors so at any one time there are permits available for 18 guests.

This morning we split into two parties and with 4 other fellow guests I set off up hill! The clouds soon burnt off as we ventured higher through community lands that benefit from 20% of the gate fees generated by the national park, a well thought out solution that encourages the local population to help protect the endangered Gorillas.

Within 2 hours to the minute we had passed into the Impenetrable Forest and were sat watching Luhondeza-the Silverback leader of Mouvaro group reach deep into the rotten base of a tree searching for pieces of decomposing vegetation to feast on.

The family that Luhondeza presides over numbers just ten individuals ranging in age from just one month to 30 years with no other male Gorilla of challenging age in the group. The Silver fur on the back of a full grown Mountain Gorilla identifies it as a mature male Gorilla and at almost 240 kilos casts an impressive shadow across the forest floor.

As we watched, Luhondeza ambled to and fro from prime position at the base of the tree that held pole interest to a comfortable bed of foliage in the shade of the towering rain forest. Luhondeza means gentle one so there was little concern for our safety from the head guide so long as we obeyed the rules and did not venture over the 7 metre line that parks require visitors to abide by. The reality of this of course is that enquiring juvenile Gorillas are illiterate and almost always create some sort of experience that results in visitors having close encounters! Today was no exception.

We were treated to a lengthy glimpse of Luhondezas latest offspring as its mother foraged amongst the vacated tree base for succulent titbits whilst the baby balanced precariously on her back blinking interestedly at the funny creatures that sat timidly taking photographs and video of its family.

At one point the entire group congregated some 4 metres from our position with suckling infants, full grown females and of course Luhondeza lazily grunting his comforting call as the last of the rotting roots were excavated from the tree.

Our head guide did a marvellous job of removing vegetation obstructing camera positions as well as positioning everyone within our small group with uninterrupted views of the entire family making for a photographers paradise.

As quickly as we had started this encounter, Luhondeza grunted, moved away deeper into the forest quickly followed by his family, ending our experience for the day leaving us to reflect on yet another privileged wildlife encounter.

Uganda and Rwanda have earned a renewed place in the itineraries of Wildlife Explorer and will certainly feature prominently in the coming years for returning guests and new guests alike.

Please contact me on: gary@wildlife-explorer.co.tz for further information on suggested inclusion of Mountain Gorilla tracking in our itineraries.

Mafia Island - A letter from Marianne

Although I grew up in East Africa and spent many holidays in various coastal retreats on the edge of the Indian Ocean, I have never seen Ocean Life anywhere that compares with Chole Bay, on Mafia Island. Chole Bay has been gazetted a Marine Park in 1995 and the coral gardens are therefore virtually unspoilt. Since the fishing is very much ancestral and restricted to the Mafians, you can see very large fish when diving or even snorkelling.

My husband Solomon went diving for the first time, and could not believe the size of some of the marine life - he is now a converted diver!. The Kinasi Lodge's water sports centre is extremely well equipped and the two dive masters very knowledgeable. Solomon could not have found a better place to be introduced to diving. On my side and due to bad ear drums I will have to carry on snorkelling with the children, but even so it is the best Marine life I have seen so far, and we all thoroughly enjoyed it.

Juliette who is 3 years old and the youngest also snorkelled, we found fins and a mask her size in the dive shop, and she could see fishes swimming under her feet. She loved it. The attraction of Mafia doesn't only lie with the Marine life however: several islands are situated around Mafia and are easily reachable by boat. We could not do everything (what with the swimming, snorkelling, boating, kayaking…) but chose to walk around Chole Island which has a very rich historical past - it was the 'capital' of the area in the early 20th Century, and you can still see ruins overgrown by vines. It is also home to the giant flying fox, which can be seen to roost in the forests.

Kinasi Lodge itself is one of the finest lodges I have stayed at. The lounge and dining rooms are very tastefully decorated in Moroccan and Zanzibari antiques, the food is healthy, varied and outstanding, the beds extremely comfortable and the staff charming. Oh, and the Martini's shaken, not stirred!. Mafia has yet to be hit by tourism - and we hope that it will stay a secret for as long as possible. Solomon, the children and I are now smitten by the place and hope to make it one of our regular getaways. I am going to have to organise for yet more holiday time from Gary!

Wilderness Camps!

The Alamana Camp at The Ngaroi is just about to close for the season and what a season it was! For almost the entire 7 months from December to June there have been countless exciting sightings and encounters with the game of the Ngaroi from Lion encounters on foot to Leopard sightings in camp!

Phillip and Dave have done a fantastic job ensuring everyone’s safety whilst exploring and tracking on foot and of course John our Masai guide has been amazing also, thank you.

Next the camp moves to Osunyai for the dry season where we hope to be able to report back on a new chapter of exclusive wildlife stories.

News from Olerai

As many of our friends know, the past few months have been so busy there has been little time to keep the newsletter up-dated and current which of course is unforgivable but without the safaris there would be little to write about so I guess there has to be some leeway with publication dates for this relatively short up-date.

My time has been split between Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda for safaris and my annual pilgrimage to the United States presenting Wildlife Explorer to new friends and old friends alike, reliving experiences and relaying new information on what is new for us. Always an exciting time for me as I get to write off a few weeks meeting old friends in amongst the presentation schedule.

This year I strayed from the norm and actually set aside a whole week to experience a side of American History that every man has at some point yearned to experience-The life of a Cowboy!!

As a Directors guest of Don Oliphant I accepted an invitation to join an annual ride in the hills overlooking the San Inez valley for a one week celebration amongst the Rancheros Visitadores, a group of men made up of wranglers, ranchers, professionals etc who have a common bond and respect of the outdoors and traditional ways of the American Cowboy.

Needless to say there were many great stories from this one-week, which I can honestly say enriched my life, and as usual when experienced gives one a greater appreciation of life. Gordy Bartow helped immensely with my horsemanship, thank you Gordy and Don introduced me to so many fine people that my head is still spinning! Thank you Don.

Wildlife Explorer has evolved into something more than a safari outfitter over the years with so many links around the world aided essentially by the many friends that have opened their homes to me for presentation venues and fine hospitality so to end this months newsletter my special thanks go to Judy and Don Oliphant, Sue and Gordy Bartow, Sharon and Lynn Bockemohle, Stacy and Lee Story (sorry Tracy!) Susan and Martie and last but not least Linda and Michael Jaffe.

Tomorrow morning is the last trek for Mountain Gorillas for me this season so as the sun sets on The Impenetrable Forest so ends the June Explorer!

With warm wishes,

Gary