The Explorer
March 2002
News from the Bush!

'The early morning light drifted lazily through the windows as my tent steward delivered hot water to rinse the nights sleep away. Tanzania has a funny way of making me relax, and sleep in the cosiness of my tent wipes away the fatigue of my normal existence'

'Jambo Mzee-Habari Asabuhi?' Hello, how are you this morning? Came the lilting voice of Mustafa over the waking noises of the bush. Some minutes before the water splashed into my wash basin-or could it have been hours? I had heard the far off roar of a Lion announcing to all that this was his land and all that passed here be aware.

My guide had a walk planned for this morning I remembered as the Lion roar echoed in my thoughts! However I was assured that he (my Guide) was well equipped for such an undertaking.

Although this was my second safari in Tanzania this would be my first game viewing on foot and as such amounted to a complete departure from my previous journeys.

A light breakfast, coffee around the campfire and safety talk finished we set off. From the vantage of the kopjes behind camp the Baboons bade me farewell as we wandered away out into the Acacia studded landscape of The Ngaroi.

A plethora of wildlife rose with the suns rays accented against the greenest grasses the Serengeti has to offer. The smallest Dik-Dik skulking by bushes marked his territory atop a twig like grass with secretions from his Pre-orbital gland beneath his eye. Steinbok, Impala, Stately Giraffe and Zebra as well all came under our scrutiny as we tracked along ravines and ridges.

The stop for tea and coffee, fruit and cookies came at just the most perfect moment on top of a ridge looking over the vast Serengeti Plains, little did I know that the highlight of the day was unfolding minutes away!

Absorbed in the grandeur of my surroundings I almost missed Phillips raised hand to stop.

Below where I stood a pair of Grants Gazelles agitatedly pranced and stotted. In hushed words Phillip explained that the behaviour of the two gazelles indicated that there might be a predator on the prowl somewhere close by! Within a few minutes the source of the Gazelles unrest became clear as a female Leopard strolled from behind a bush sniffing the ground, tail swishing. Watching intently as the drama unfolded a far off herd of Eland suddenly scented either the Leopard or our small group and took fright.

Minutes seemed like hours as I became aware of a small movement off to the right of where the Leopard had made its dramatic entrance, a movement followed by the awkward getting to feet of a very young Grants Gazelle. It seemed improbable that the light rustling of grass made by the youngster preparing to flee would not attract the Leopard, however the continued nervous snorts and fake sprints away from the direction of the baby by the adult Grants Gazelles was enough to keep the Leopard occupied! Silently the young gazelle tottered away whilst the majestic Leopard seemed to sense it had missed its mid-morning snack and headed for the shade of a nearby bush to build up enough energy for the next feeding opportunity.

Later as we sat mesmerised by the twirling flames of the campfire recounting the days experiences Mustafa greeted me again-'Jambo Mzee-Habari ya Porini'? -'Hello, how was the bush'? Summoning up my best recollection of a suitable response to anything with Habari in the sentence I grinned and said Nzuri Sana- Very, very good Mustafa!'

Extract from L.B's safari journal February 2002.

Bush Walks

If you have been keeping track of the walking safari sightings over the passed few months you will know that there have been many memorable encounters with wild animals on foot.
After Marianne and Gary left The Ngaroi last month Phillip hosted a number of guests in The Ngaroi for 4 nights of walking and night driving as well as of course the regular game drives. During one walk the sighting of Buffalo spoor started what turned out to be one of the best walks of the season so far.
Moving up wind the group were able to follow a herd of 350-400 head of Buffalo as they grazed along the edge of the river running through The Ngaroi. Wind conditions were optimum allowing an approach to 150 metres of the edge of the herd! The sighting lasted almost an hour and allowed a glimpse of some fascinating behaviour.

The next morning it was decided to return to the general area to see if the herd was still in the vicinity, the alarm calls and subsequent flight of a flock of Helmeted Guinea Fowl discovered close to where the Buffalo the previous evening had been feeding prompted Phillip to proceed with an increased element of caution.

Minutes later the fresh spoor of Lion and more Guinea alarm calls produced a Pride of Lions feeding on a Buffalo Carcass!


Breeding Pride

We are pleased to be able to report that the Lion Pride Seasonally resident on the Kopjes at the back of the main Ngaroi rocks has yet again produced a fine healthy litter.
This is the first time this season that we have seen the new arrivals and so far sightings of 3 young Lion Cubs have been confirmed.

The sighting of the cubs of this particular Pride is always an exciting occurrence for the Explorer Team despite numerous nights of lost sleep when the Alpha Male vocally proclaims his territory!

As in previous years the Cubs Mother likes to sit on top of the second from highest Kopje in the system with views out onto The Ngaroi plains.

We later spotted her hunting alone late at night during one of our nocturnal drives.


Migration Location

As of the 8th March the migratory herds were spread across the plains from a little north of Lemuta to the Triangle east of Naabi Hill. Non-resident Prides of Lions, Haeyana Clans and vultures all reported as enjoying the spectacle!

Masai Manhood

In recent weeks we have seen resurgence in the Masai Tradition of killing Lion to prove ones Warrior prowess.

The tradition, which requires an individual or group of individuals to track and kill a Lion only with spears has been seen in previous years on the borders of The Ngaroi however recent changes in the laws have meant that to carry on the tradition was punishable by imprisonment.

Sadly Morani have killed one of the two largest Lions of The Ngaroi, the black-mained brother in the last week. The remaining blonde-mained brother is still roaming the area on the edge of Oldonyo Rok, the large hill to the east of camp.

Quite a number of our guests no doubt have great photos of what was an exquisite animal.

News from Dave Armon

'In January I was offered the opportunity to spend two months in Northern Serengeti as part of an intensive training course for Professional Guides. Two whole months in a remote, game controlled area. How good can it get?

After much family negotiation and various agreed paybacks, I set off on the two-day journey from Arusha.

There is no limit to the amount you can learn in such a diverse field as natural history. Mammals, Birds, Botany, Tracking, Arthropods (insects, spiders scorpions and ticks!) were each given a week of undivided attention, along with reptiles and amphibians - not to forget the sharing of experiences with other guides all added up to an excellent time for everyone.

To mention a few highlights I'd have to pick out "Frogging" (a night time experience of catching and identifying different species); "Agama Lizard Fishing" - getting up close and personal; catching bats, so often thought of as pests, who actually do more good than harm; and several nights of watching owls, which regularly turned into leopard viewing, always something special.

There were days of trying to get elephant to charge whilst on foot - why does it never happen when you want it to?!! Then the noticing of the smaller things, often forgotten but invaluable to the bigger picture.

All necessary experiences in order to keep up with the world of guiding. An experience worthwhile, however it was wonderful to get back to my three women at home!'

Dave

News from Olerai

Well, as mentioned in the February Explorer, the Strand Clan all embarked on a wonderful journey to The Ngaroi at the beginning of the month accompanied by Marianne's family and Phillip's family for a short safari.

Not only do these short safaris give all of Wildlife Explorer's 'office walla's' the opportunity to look at presentation first hand but also it gives us an up to date insight as to the changing needs of our own staff, always an important area of development for us as such a small exclusive company.

Developing new ideas for how we operate our camps is usually born through concentrated thinking back at base but until the new development is seen out in the environment to which it is intended the real value of the possible changes can never be properly evaluated so the few days spent looking at all the new ideas for the next season in the setting of The Ngaroi was invaluable.

Jamie Strand, aged 9 and Pascal Zelleke, aged 11 spent what had to be 99% of their time in camp fine-tuning their stalking techniques hoping to successfully catch an unsuspecting Guinea Fowl! For all bird lovers reading this never fear! I believe we are still some distance from the Guinea Fowl population living in fear from our two avid would be trackers!

With warm wishes and Easter greetings,

Gary.